Archive for category update

Why garden?

Because with a little effort and a lot of vegetable stock, this:
pumpkin

Becomes this:
pumpkin-risotto

The pumpkin was 100% free, as it grew from a volunteer plant that grew from a seed from the compost we spread on the garden. Compost from our neighborhood’s communal bin. Someone in the neighborhood had some pie pumpkins at some point last year, and composted the seeds, and I thank them.

The wilted mustard greens, in all their peppery goodness, were also from our garden though not volunteer but rather planted quite intentionally by me. They were the perfect compliment to the sweet, creamy risotto. We’ve got four mustard plants in the winter garden, and five more squash stored from this summer’s harvest, so I expect we’ll be enjoying this meal several more times before the winter is over. It was the best damn thing I’d eaten in I don’t know how long. So. Damn. Good.

And sure, you can buy a pumpkin and you can buy mustard greens. But it’ll cost you more, and there’s no way it can taste as good. Especially the greens. Nothing tastes quite the same as a vegetable that’s been harvested minutes before eating. That, and for the cost of a packet of seeds ($2.49), we’ll have greens on our table all winter.

The bread? Molasses wheat from an old bread cookbook that belonged to my parents. The book is so old, I assumed it was out of print and I was going to share the recipe with you, but a quick search proves there is a New! Updated and Expanded! edition, so good copyright adherent that I am, I simply recommend you look for this book in a store or library and see if it’s still got that molasses wheat bread recipe. If it does, it makes a damn fine bread.

It’s also quite good toasted, with butter and homemade blueberry jam. So excuse me, please. The fetus wants a snack.



Tags: , , , ,

4 Comments

It’s Not About the Soup

delicata or della cotta, it's good squash

delicata or della cotta, it's good squash



This post is not about the soup that I made last night. Not that it was a bad soup. Missy even ate the beet greens that were in it after only a few moments of hesitant prodding with her spoon. It’s not about the soup because I made the soup in a hurry. I was sick. I’d spent the weekend blowing my nose a lot and talking in the way that people do when their heads are great sacks of mucous. I felt ready for work on Monday, rode in, and suffered some embarrassment when a co-worker caught me staring blankly at my personal email for, like, seven or eight minutes. Having thus obtained independent verification that I was not in a productive state, I packed it in and went home early.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , , ,

No Comments

Hurry Up, Chicken

a Hoosick Farms roast chicken, considerably abused

a Hoosick Farms roast chicken, considerably abused

I’ve been working till six or seven most nights. It takes me about forty minutes to get home. I have a dog. For anything involving more than a quick fry, this demands the following routine: get home. Get dinner going. Walk dog. Feed dog. Finish preparing dinner. Feed dinner to self and girlfriend. Do dishes. Write something.

All you parents out there, feel free to start laughing.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

4 Comments

Cari’s spending: Getting close to admitting we need to up the budget (and a bonus garden post/grumble)

My first attempt at fried green tomatoes. We ate them with plum chutney. So good!

My first attempt at fried green tomatoes. We ate them with plum chutney. So good!

We’re either on budget or over this week, depending on whether or not I decide to finally go ahead and tack on that Fetal Food Allowance that so many of you have generously insisted we qualify for. It does make sense: I’m eating more and craving/needing more expensive foods (obscene quantities of fruit, more moderate amounts of orange juice, and the more-than-occasional bar of dark chocolate with blueberries) because I’m pregnant. And that certainly won’t let up once the baby arrives. As I recall it from Kiddo #1’s babyhood, during those first six months of exclusive breastfeeding I was even hungrier than during his pregnancy. I ate more in those early nursing months than during the pregnancy (and lost all the baby weight while eating that much. Exclusive breastfeeding, mamas. It’s good on about 50 different levels).

But I’m stubborn, and highly competitive, and I’m still hoping to find a way to stick to the original $125 a week budget now that our family is growing. It’s possible. I know it is. If there hadn’t been a pumpkin-milkshake-and-harvest-burger Burgerville incident over the weekend, we would have come very close to the budget this week. That means it’s totally possible. I’ve only been baking about half the bread we eat in the past few weeks, so if I can get back to baking all our bread, and ration the chocolate bars to one every week and a half…

Yeah. Maybe.

So…the numbers:

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

No Comments

Sometimes-Cheap Eats: Casseroles

emfar-026

As you may or may not know, about a year ago, I published a cassserole cookbook. And for the past five years I’ve been hosting a casserole competition in Brooklyn. Last night, the Fifth Annual Casserole Party descended on Brooklyn Label in Greenpoint where probably too much cheese was consumed (wait—there’s no such thing as too much cheese… anyway).

Many of the contestants went all out for their dishes; when it comes to cooking contests—especially in Brooklyn—you have to, if you want to win. But one theme I heard repeated throughout the night (and not just by those who earn the favor of the judges) was that casseroles are supposed to be cheap. In fact, casseroles were created to be a cheap way to feed lots of people. As I wrote in the introduction to Casserole Crazy:

After the Great Depression and up until the end of World War II, one-dish meals that could be made on the cheap were a necessity for many families surviving on rations, canned goods, bread, and very little meat. Mixing dry bread crumbs with beef or chicken, broth and a canned vegetable was a way to make a family’s meat ration feed more people and last longer.

Casseroles served the same purpose for my family when I was growing up in the 80s and 90s. But at some point (and I’ll take a little bit of the credit, or the blame, for this), casseroles became fashionable and, in turn, more expensive to make. Just have a look at the list of last night’s winners for proof. While I loved the duck confit casserole and the fried chicken dinner with kale bechamel, in general, I love just as much my five-dollar tuna and macaroni concoctions.

What do you think? Do confits and caviar help boost the image of casserole or just make us tuna noodle chefs look bad?



Tags: , , ,

2 Comments

Rib-Sticking Resumed

rice and beans, fried green tomato

rice and beans, fried green tomato

Am I glad it’s autumn. I love summer’s salads and cookouts, but, after a while, it’s like going around in a bathing suit all the time. I want jeans and a sweater. I want food that sticks to my ribs. I want to use the oven for more than a second. I want food that cooks for a good long while.

Work being — thankfully — what it is, I don’t always get to cook as much or as long as I’d like, but I am more than glad to fall back into cool-weather comfort food. The rice and beans you see before you are an example of that. They also started as something else.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , ,

No Comments

Remembering my Grandmother’s Food

pole beans, from Peacock Modern's flickr stream

pole beans, from Peacock Modern's flickr stream

My grandmother died on Sunday. It’s ok, she was ninety-four. She was the last of her generation in my family. In her long life, she massacred food as no other before or since. Her signature dish was a chicken thigh that had been frozen, reheated, frozen, reheated, frozen, coated with paprika, and reheated again. She was stingier with food than anyone I have ever met. My parents are generous with food. My other grandmother was generous with food. I am generous with food. I have traveled among people who had nothing, and they were generous with their food. She was not like them. She stole the desserts from my bar mitzvah, directing the caterer to load them into her car, and doled them out to me until I was eighteen. She once offered my dad a roll left over from his own mother’s memorial, more than a year after the event. It was overgrown with mold. Whether or not he made this up, I don’t know, but it is emblematic.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

5 Comments

It’s surplus week on $50 a Week

Emily’s got a freezer full of pig parts. Me? Fall garden cleanup this weekend resulted in this:

The big'uns

The big'uns

The little'uns

The little'uns

I haven’t weighed them yet, but hefting the bags I’m estimating we’re looking at about twenty pounds of green tomatoes. Pickle them? Fry them? Sort small batches into paper bags and hope they ripen? What the hell to do with this many green tomatoes?

Tags: , , , ,

8 Comments

Cari’s spending, plus: What to do when California gives you lemons

It’s two posts in one! Two posts in one! Oh, an exciting day. You’re welcome, dear ones.

Let’s leave the budgety stuff for last and get right down to the lemons, yeah?

sliced-lemons

Lemons. As you may recall, I came home from California with eight contraband lemons stowed in my bag. What? I didn’t mention anything about contraband before? Well, maybe they weren’t, going in the northerly direction. After all, Oregon is a pretty laid back, pragmatic kind of place. (I did smuggle apples and bananas into California on the way in, though. Going from Oregon into California on I-5, they stop you at the border and ask if you have any fresh fruit or plants in your car. “No, ma’am.” I wasn’t technically lying at the time, because I’d forgotten we had a bag of fruit in the back seat. But we did. So there you go. Turns out illegal fruit is much tastier than its tamer law-abiding cousins.)

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , , ,

4 Comments

Went to Chicago, Got Down To Eat

I just got back from visiting my friend Bill in Chicago. I drove out there in a day, a quarter of the way across the country. I did some light tourism, but, principally, I ate. After that, I drove back.

I don’t want to talk about how much I ate in budgetary terms. Suffice it to say that I spent several times $50 in the space of a few days. I won’t lie to you: I went vastly over-budget. But quibbling about a few banknotes when visiting a friend in Chicago who likes to eat is like fussing over a few extra dollars of rocket fuel when heading out to take that one small step onto the moon. This was my first visit to Chicago. Those of you who know the place and what it has to offer will understand my lapse of discipline.

Not long after I arrived, Bill took me out for tacos:

tacos al pastor, de carnitas, y de lengua

tacos al pastor, de carnitas, y de lengua

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

6 Comments